Český Krumlov (April 28th-May 1st 2018)
Day 1: April 28th 2018
It was Saturday morning and with my eyes still half-closed I made it to the Bratislava´s bus station Mlynské Nivy. There was already waiting for me my super cheap bus which took me to Prague where I had to switch buses to make it to Český Krumlov. This whole drive lasted for 9 hours.
I came to Prague´s Florence at 11:30am completely tired because I didn´t sleep well the other night but what was even worse on this trip I was on my own. I decided to try travelling on my own. So let´s see. I was in Prague what to do next… Find that bus station from where my bus to Český Krumlov leaves of course. I had 90 minutes to do so and I also needed to have a lunch because I was starving (and I didn´t pack any food!!). For a while I thought this was the transit station but I wanted to be sure so I went to the information center to ask about it. Turned out I was wrong. I had to go to a completely different place! Thank God I asked… On the other side when the guy on a helpdesk noticed that I was from Slovakia he turned himself into such a mean person… He was so nice to that foreign couple who was there before me and suddenly so mean to me because I was from Slovakia. But who cares he answered my questions and I had to worry about finding the other bus station Na knížecí and to not miss my bus.
To get there I had to take a subway to Anděl. I´ve never been in a subway alone before. But I found it, I got a tickets (another “nice” experience with Czechs), I didn´t get lost and about four times I had to convince myself that this on-my-own trip was a great idea and I am not going back home now despite I really wanted to. And if I didn´t have my moral support from my best friend on a call I think I´d go back home. But she insisted that I have to go on and everything will be just fine. After I left the subway I had to ask about direction again (I had such a bad luck on people today…) and eventually I found it. By the way later during this trip I was talking to one guy in Český Krumlov about this unpleasant experience and do you know what did he say? He said: “Pražákovi ani hovno nesmrdí.” It is something like… People from Prague think that they´re something better. Of course I don´t want to offend anyone I´m just pointing out about my experience and one man´s subjective opinion…
At the end I found my bus station Na knížecí (I´m not going to mention how many hysteric attacks I had had during the past 90 minutes) and I also had some time to get a lunch. I found one nice Czech restaurant and I had sviečková with beer. And I also got into a fight with a waitress. Nice isn´t it? The food was great and the waitress was nice and smiling at me but only until the moment when I asked for a receipt and her change was way too little than what she was supposed to give me. Another disappointment of the day. And it was only a lunch time!! By the way I usually don´t make pictures of the food but this mega portion surprised me. And I was surprised all the time when I went to a restaurant in Czech Republic – everywhere I ate they gave me such a big portion! LOVE IT!
I came to Český Krumlov around 4pm and thanks to my GPS and obviously not such a bad orientation sense I found my pension quite fast. Small advice for the future: if you order an accommodation in a pension here, try to contact them in person. When I met the owner he was surprised that it was me only. He said that I´ve booked the biggest and prettiest apartment there… So we made a deal. If I move out to another smaller apartment (same quality) he´ll refund me some money. Of course I was in. And as a bonus he promised me breakfast on a terrace. For a breakfast loves such as me it was be the best news of the day!
At 5pm I was already in the city center making a small research what to see and where to go here. I lost my energy quite fast so I went to Krumlovský mlýn for a beer. Finally I was proud of myself that I made it here and now I can enjoy this beautiful view. And I also felt great because despite I probably smelt like a trash I got a sale price from my waiter. Okay I admit I was smiling at him all the time… But it saved me some money!
In the evening I ended up at Náměstí Svornosti where I are my dinner on the stairs (#lowcostlife) and where I met six German boys with who I spent the remaining evening. In the evening I also recommend a walk to the castle when there are no tourists and you can enjoy this place only for yourself.
Day 2: April 29th 2018
Good morning everyone! In the evening I came to conclusion that I can´t rely on the word of pension manager that he´ll prepare me a breakfast. So I bought a coffee cake and after I ate about 400g of it with a black coffee (I forgot to buy a milk) I thought I will die today. As I was lying in a bed trying to fall asleep again suddenly my new friend knocked on my door. I came there to open it and he said he prepared me a breakfast. I think I stopped thinking for a second. Then I started to be grateful for all the family celebrations we have during the year because it is like one big feast. You meet you family and you eat and drink. So the result is that I can eat as much food as I want without actually throwing it up. So I went out to the terrace for my second breakfast, I talked to that manager and I drank my second coffee. I admit that my heart was beating so fast that I thought that I will get a stroke. With my new pregnancy stomach I made it back to my room where I was lying in a bed for another hour trying to absorb all the food.
Other than that today was a sightseeing day for me. I bought Český Krumlov Card that includes visiting of the Krumlov Castle Museum and Tower, Regional Museum, Photo atelier Seidel, Egon Schiele Center and Monasteries of Český Krumlov for a good price. The price was even lower for me when I showed them my EURO 26 card.
As an ethnologist I went to Regional Museum at first. There is declared the history of Český Krumlov and the exposition is really beautiful. They also have a ceramic 3D model of Český Krumlov. After that I went to Krumlov Castle. There was a super long line to the Krumlov Tower but it really worth it. You will see the whole historic city center and the view is stunning! Then I went on a walk around local gardens and afternoon I attended a free walking tour. My timing in this city was perfect – these days there were being celebrated the 1st of May celebrations and for example this free walking tour was their accompanying program. The only thing I remember from the tour is a long dirty spot on a Castle wall – because above it used to be a bathroom and people´s shits were falling out of the Castle over there. And I finally got orientated in the city even without using a map!
On the Náměstí Svornosti were local markets these days and I found out that if you come here in the evening the prices go up (for half of the day price)! So if you want to eat here the lunchtime is the perfect time for that.
Day 3: April 30th 2018
Today in the morning I don´t even know why I told myself that I think my pension friend forgot about me again so I finished my coffee cake and had a coffee. What a surprise was when just a while after that he knocked on my door with breakfast! So I repeated last day´s morning scenario, I was grateful to my stomach to be able to hold everything in it and after another while of trying to get an energy I left to Egon Schiele art museum and to Krumlov´s Monasteries.
Ego Schiele art museum is an amazing museum and gallery and it taught me following: don´t go to the galleries by yourself only. You might feel a little bit like a schizophrenic after a while talking to yourself and analyzing all the things over there. It really sucks. Talking about Egon Schiele I really recommend to at least look up his things, it´s brilliant. You´ll find plenty of his naked Muses and lovers…
Then I went to the Monasteries but I wasn´t impressed by them at all. I´m just not into these sacral things. But I have another small advice for the future: if you go to a sacral place turn off your ringtones. You never know who´s going to call you in the most unappropriate situation. I was for example in a church part where people were praying when my phone started ringing…
I had a lunch in a local restaurant Travellers. The food was good and the price was fine as well. This is also a place where you want to eat during the day but also a funny place to drink in the evening (I spent here last evening with my new local friends but that´s another story…). By the way, in the evening you´ll find here more likely locals than tourists. Lots of memories…
Afternoon I went to a cafeteria Kafemlejnek where I wanted to fill out my postcards. For those who don´t know me yet – every time I go to a new place I buy about 10 postcards that I send to my family and friends. So I had like 10 postcards on a table straight next to my beer and turned out that I should have put the beer on them. Why? The wind suddenly blew and my postcards landed in the river Vltava. When I realized what happened I climbed over a terrace rope and started chasing my postcards. I think I made laugh the whole terrace… Especially when I was climbing back up. But I got all of my postcards, my friend-waiter missed all this show and after I left this place I sent them immediately.
After my beer I left to check out the 1st of May celebrations in the Krumlov´s city park where was also a small party. For the first time in my life I saw a custom “stavanie mája” – it is like lifting up a decorated tree, there were also folklore people dancing, swing music band playing, lots of attractions for kids, grilled food and lots of beer. There was also supposed to be an event “pálenie čarodejnice” – burning a witch – but it was rescheduled because of the wind and during the evening there was a country band playing. Meanwhile I left for a lantern parade across the city (it was especially for kids) but I was happy that I attended because I bought my lantern in the morning and I was carrying it all the day just because of this parade. It was a great day!
Day 4: May 1st 2018
Today in the morning I didn´t eat at all. With my empty stomach I was impatiently waiting for the pension manager to knock on my door. He was delayed today… but he came at the end!
After my breakfast I went to Photo atelier Seidel – it is a house and an atelier of Jozef and František Seidel from the 19th century. It is an amazing place where you can feel the history. There is the original furniture, a lot of photos from back in days, Seidel´s diaries, books and dark room when I suddenly realized that I have to go back home… So what to do before I leave? I went back to Krumlov Castle to see that beautiful view and then ran to the bus that was taking me to Bratislava. But what´s the most important – to not forget about this fairytale and come back there one day again!
Bye, bye Český KrumLOVE!